Seiko is confusing us a lot with their
sub brands, reference numbers and model names, but this can also be the
result of the lack of availability of them here in Europe. Especially
watches from the Grand Seiko range or the Prospex (Marinemaster)
collection we are discussing today, are very hard to get in Europe.
Authorized dealers of brands like – let’s say – Breitling, Omega, Rolex,
IWC etc. do not carry them at all. We don’t know whether this is Seiko
to blame or the jeweler’s businesses, but it seems that they are just
not on the haute horology map (yet).
Undeserved, as you will see after reading this review on their SBDX011 Marinemaster 1000M. Also undeserved as there seems to be quite some demand for Seiko watches in here Europe. Based on statistics of Chronolytics, we read that Seiko takes a 26th position in the Top 50 most popular watch brands in Europe of Q3 2012. If we compare that to the previous quarters (rank 27 in Q2 2012, rank 29 in Q1 2012, rank 35 in Q4 2011), we could say that Seiko gains popularity among European watch consumers.
Digging
a little deeper, Chronolytics shows us that the Prospex range of
watches was even more popular among European watch consumers in Q3 2012
than the cheaper Seiko 5 models or even – with a slight advantage – than
the Grand Seiko range.
We
managed to handle a Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1000M (or ref. SBDX011)
watch – as you probably need to buy them over the internet as they are
officially only available in Japan – and were absolutely impressed with
it. This approx. 3150 USD / 2500 Euro mechanical diving
watch wipes the floor with a lot of Swiss made watches in that very
same price category in terms of finish, quality and specifications.
The Marinemaster 1000M has a 50mm diameter titanium case with special coating (hence the dark color) and a height of 17.4mm,
we immediately understood its nick name. When looking at the watch from
the side, it looked like it had to be very uncomfortable.
After
giving it a try, we had to admit that it was actually quite
comfortable. Mainly due to the strap and the fact that there isn’t a
50mm gap between both strap ends (as you can see above, the space
between these ends is much smaller). The only down side – especially for
normal wear or non-professional use – is that the watch is very thick.
It makes it a fun watch to wear, but would you wear this to your office
doing desk work all day or having meetings where you have to (or want
to) wear a suit? On the other hand, watches like this are meant for
professional use.
Looking at the
dial, it is very legible and perfectly finished for professional use.
Big luminous hour markers – Seiko uses their own Lumi Brite
product for that – and large hands that will tell time (and remaining
oxygen time) under almost all circumstances. Although the case has some
sort of metal outer case, the bezel is still very easy to operate due to
the opening in this outer case and the bezel slightly sticking out of
it.
Although
we wouldn’t mind a no-date watch, Seiko chose to have a date aperture
on this Prospex SBDX011. Just like we are used from its Swiss counter
parties, there is a lot of writing on the dial. It tells us the model
name, water resistance level (1000 meters) and the fact that it has an
automatic movement. It also tells us proudly that it has been made in
Japan.
The automatic winding movement inside is a Seiko caliber 8L35. From various other sources
on the internet, we read that this movement is an undecorated version
of a movement (caliber 9S55) that is also being used in the Grand Seiko
range. We think very highly of the Grand Seiko collection and their
movements and are happy to read that this 3150 USD / 2500 Euro watch has
a decent movement inside, based on the more expensive Grand Seiko
collection. Should it be nicely decorated? Is a Rolex movement nicely
decorated? No, these are work horses and should function accordingly.
Only the necessary level of finish should be taken care of by Seiko in
order to keep it running error-free for years to come.
Safely
tucked away under its titanium case back, this movement – if as
reliable as other Seiko calibers – should perform perfectly. A
transparent case back doesn’t make sense on a diving watch, especially
not with a depth rate of 1000 meters and with this level of finish of
the movement. So instead, Seiko added a nice engraved wave to the case
back surrounded with the necessary information for the owner of the
watch.
As
with a number of other Seiko diving watches, the screw-down winding
crown of this Prospex MM1000 is located between 4 and 5 o’clock. It is
actually a nice location for the large crown, as it won’t stick into the
top of your hand when wearing it.
In
short, the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1000M (or SBDX011) is an awesome
timepiece for diving professionals or just watch enthusiasts who are
willing to spend this money on a Seiko tool watch. It is definitely
worth its money, by far even, but our concern would be the wearability
for such a large watch. For divers, professional or amateur, this Seiko
makes a great companion and will do the job just as fine as its Swiss
competition that has a doubled price tag.
I
will not go into detail about the history of the Sea-Dweller as we have
written on this watch many times in the past. Instead, we focus on the
new Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 reference 116600. You could say that Rolex
came up with the Sea-Dweller in 1971 (but already developed in 1967) as
the first diver’s watch for professionals. The Submariner was already
there of course, and could also be used by professional divers, but was
also more or less a nice sports watch that you could wear when you
weren’t getting near any water (except the occasional shower or bath).
It seems that the new Sea-Dweller meets the same specifications as the
former model, reference 16600. A 40mm case, a titanium helium escape
valve, water resistance to 1220 meters (4000 feet), caliber 3135
movement and using 904L stainless steel for the case and bracelet. The
major differences are the updates that we also saw on the Rolex
Submariner 116610 and GMT-Master II 116710 models and variations:
ceramic bezels with Cerachrom inserts, use of Chromalight for hands and
hour markers and thicker case lugs. Although the lugs seem to differ per
Rolex sports model. The bracelet also changed in recent years. The
Sea-Dweller 116600 comes on the well-known Oyster bracelet with
Glidelock extension system and a fliplock extension link.
Having
owned a Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 for 10 years myself, I was very
interested in trying on the new Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600 as the Deepsea
Sea-Dweller 116660 did not do it for me. The 43mm case is something I
can (easily) handle, but the weight is just not comfortable for me. I
felt a big relief when I tried on the new Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000. A
perfect fit – like the former model – and all the new technology that
Rolex has put into it is a big bonus.
Trying
to compare the Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 versus the 116600, I actually
felt that I was almost looking at the same watch. There was nothing that
should have been differently in my honest opinion. The bezel has become
scratch resistant, the bracelet has an easier adjustment system and the
watch appears to be a bit bigger due to the lugs (but isn’t). What I
didn’t like about the Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 compared to the
Sea-Dweller 116600 was how it appeared on the wrist some times. Even
though both watches have a 40mm case diameter, the 16600 just appeared
to be a bit too small compared to the other Rolex sports models. The
beefy lugs fixed that.
Now
I have found a quite rare piece, a Rolex Datejust from the late 1950s,
reference 6605, in steel and gold, which has one very fine distinction
from all the other Datejusts 6605s.
The
writing on the dial for the COSC is in German and says: “Superlativer
Chronometer nach amtlicher Prüfung” instead of the regular English
writing: ” Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”.
While
this is a great and rare collectible Piece, I don’t really know much
about the reason of the German writing. I wonder if any collector out
there can shed a light on it? Maybe there is not really a specific
reason and it is just another part of the Rolex myth?
I
like to find such rare pieces, watches that hide a secret history and I
enjoy researching until I find out the truth, if there is a truth
behind it that is…
